Some 40 years ago, at the end of the 1960's, the development of Citizen's high end wrist watches was reaching its peak. The launch of the Chrono Master in 1967 came alongside a range of other new models like the Leopard and the Seven Star. The Chrono Master moniker was used for different movements in automatic and hand-winding forms and these were produced until 1972. The standard Chrono Master’s accuracy when launched in the first year was -5 to +10 seconds per day, and two hand wound models were produced, using the 0920 and 1870 movement respectively. The 1870 featured a date wheel and had higher jeweling – 25 rather than the 22 found in the hands only 0920. However, it cannot really compare to the hi-beat movements from Seiko, even if the movements were finished and adjusted to a higher standard versus other Citizens of this longstanding caliber. 
Every time one discusses Citizen, it’s impossible to overlook arch-rival Seiko. These companies battled for the best high end watch for almost twenty years. The Chrono Master line of course was meant to dethrone the King and/or Grand Seiko line. Often named "The Citizen" many do consider it a worthy rival, but that just maybe it falls a bit short. In the vintage arena however these watches go toe to toe. Looking great and doing well in your old age does matter.
As for most vintage Japanese watches, it’s all in the details, and this is where The Citizen shines. With a large stainless steel case of nearly 37mm (lug to lug is 48mm) and a lug width of 18mm or even 20mm, this modern sized Chrono Master is an eminently wearable dress watch even today. The thick, bevelled mineral glass crystal brings its thickness only up to 12.5mm, so it is still comfortable under the cuff.
Let’s look at case design, because if anything, it is understated. Whereas Seiko (rightly so) made a big deal about Tanaka's so-called “Grammar of Design” design, Citizens were just practical. Even if this was said by Seiko on King Seiko too I wouldn’t quite charge them with copy-cat behaviour as there is some neat twisting to the lugs. The polishing too is of a high level, on par with most vintage Grand and King Seiko’s. While this model has an unsigned crown – sadly – later models only received the normal “CTZ”, although the ‘C’ mark would be expected. This has been noted on one or two 1967 examples of the 1870 hand-winding model.
The Citizen Chrono Master employs a silvery white dial with some appliqués. Under a loupe, these appliqués all show a high level of precision comparable to the quality level of a watch like the King Seiko 45-7001. In fact, they are nearly identical. The black inlays on the hands and markers are similar, as are the applied logos; even the printed black hash marks for the minute track are alike.
Looking at the Citizen Chrono Master's case back reveals its most charming characteristic. Like Seiko, Citizen adorned some of its case backs with an intricate gold medaillon and it is obvious that Citizen firmly beat Seiko in terms of design and execution. The eagle on the Chrono Master actually looks like a German coat of arms, but really just lets you know you’re holding something special. Even the other Chrono Master case backs writings indicate quality with branding like "Star", ‘Parawater’ and Chronomaster.

On display the 5216-7040 with green dial and the 5606-8061 with white dial

               

I call this "blue Ice"..

                       

Luxury in the 1960s

The first Seikomatic appeared in 1960, austere in design and function, but providing the starting point for a luxury product line that culminated into the early Grand Seiko. Features included waterproof cases, more or less mysterious complications like calendar, slimdate, selfdater and of course an automatic movement fitted with the brilliant magic lever invention, which uses pawls (consider them paws actually) rather than direct gearing between the oscillating rotor and the barrel. This helps isolate the gear train from shocks. This Seiko invention from 1959 improved winding efficiency, by transferring all oscillating movements of the moving weight - both clockwise and counterclockwise - to the main spring thereby reducing the time needed to fully wind the spring. 

That first Seikomatic with the automatic 603 calibre (renamed the 6201), had a 27.6mm diameter movement running at 18000 bph. There were 17, 20 or 30 jewel variants. The mentioned date complication first appeared in the 24 jewel 394 Seikomatic Selfdater of 1962, later renamed as caliber 6205. That in turn evolved into the majestic 39 jewel 395 Self Dater 50 Proof of 1963.

       

From 1963 through 1967, Seiko released a number of automatic Seikomatic Selfdaters and Weekdaters. The weekdaters used the 400/6206 movement and evolved into the first chronometer Grand Seikos. 

The first business man’s watch
In 1964/5 a second product line of Seikomatics joined the esthetics of the 62 series, but it was fitted with base caliber 83. Here the number of jewels from first comer 8306 seems to have been reduced to 27 in caliber 8346A as a cost reduction measure and to promote the product line to the young business man at a lower price point. Additionaly, it seems to have been good marketing to adjust the product branding to that Business nomenclature. Business-A was probably indicating an accuracy rating, but it was also used for the front loading 8306.. which featured 30 jewels. Front loading is collector’s slang for a monococ case design that would force the watchmaker to remove the crystal first in order to lift the movement out of the solid steel block. For everyone’s convenience it was even engraved with One Piece Case on the back.
Rather than the magic lever used in the automatic only 62 caliber, this winding mechanism incorporated the very practical and effective inversion roller system that allowed the watch to be manually wound via the crown.

Nevertheless, at the time of its launch in 1964 one other Seikomatic Weekdater became the bee’s knees of the automatic line-up, it was the hacking calibre 6218-8971 with 35 jewel, running at 18,000bph. Styling differences can be easily seen on the dial design, the presence or absence of the (applied) Gyro symbol or the little star just above the six o'clock marker or the framed-unframed weekdate window. Generally speaking however this Seikomatic Weekdater was already Grand Seiko material. It could be comfortably compared to the 57GS manual wind Self-Dater of 1963, and was well before the launch of the first automatic 62GS in 1967. 

   

As mentioned the 6218 automatic is integral to the 62xx line-up with other highlights like Seiko’s 6217 World Time and their first dive watch the 62MAS. The excessive 35-jewel count of the 6218, and likewise that of the 57GS and 62GS, are all examples of  the solution to the datewheel ‘shake& fall problem’. Below the date wheel three jewels were added to keep it balanced and stabilized.
According to Seiko design esthetics still seen today in dive watches or Alpinists, a variety of designs were engraved or stamped on the caseback, anything from sealions, seahorses, dolphins, olympic flames to crowns! The early engraved models of course were prone to fading and sometimes almost noting remains. The model 6218 usually has a crown and dolphin on the back.
The other, mechanically less endowed Seikomatics, even though not always named thus, were the Business Weekdaters with caliber 6206 or 8346 and especially the Sea Lion Weekdater – this one featuring a press-fit rather than a screw-down case back. These watches are still quality watches but are merely produced in a very cost-efficient manner, the Weekdater complication was even dropped in later versions

The true business man’s watch
As demonstrated above, by May 1964 the 6206 was stripped down to 26 jewels and its production simplified. It was made to be an affordable watch for the normal man, the train bound commuter in Japanese society during the mid-60s.
With this in mind the watch was made until February 1967, making the 6206 one of Seiko’s better known movements. The 6206 of course represented a significant price cut to JPY 12,500 from the JPY 15,000 of the 400 series, together with the Marvel it is probably the one with the most versions. One of these is the rare charcoal sunburst Business Diashock, which has omitted the weekdater dial text.

   

The 6206 caliber was produced in both A and B variants, with 6206B introduced in August 1965. The main change - other than those mentioned already - seems to be better efficiency in the day wheel function. As usual, there is both SS and goldplated cases. These also come with a number of different outer bezels both plain and more elaborate with fluted design. Most however have plain bezels.

Dials can be seen in four types: half sized markers with no inner bezel, long markers with minute graded inner bezel and the blocky markers on the crosshair dial. The fourth one is a very rare type with square markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 and a graded dial. Dials exist in white, black and silver with a number of surface treatments. The day wheel is one langauge only in English or Kanji with a blue Saturday and a red Sunday. On the dial it can be read in both framed and unframed versions, possibly with the framed version only with 6206B calibers. As mentioned earlier, branding changed from the cursive Seikomatic script and the Seikomatic logo to the printed Seikomatic text with the applied Seiko logo, in fact much more changed on the dial but it can be hard to track all revisions.

There is no doubt by now that the 6218 caliber has planted its flag on top of Mount Fuji with its greater heft and the screw down case back with dolphin crown emblem. But in essence, it differs only through its finer regulation capabilities and its seconds setting function. The elevated jewel count indicated on the dial just providing a solution to the day-date wheel stability issues of the 6206.

Seikomatic's pinnacle
Over all, the third digit progression from 0, 1, to 4 noted in these caliber indications would appear to be a quality indication, meaning that the Grand Seiko 6245 or 6246 are somehow merely a small step up from the 6218 Seikomatic. However, the 6245 is spectacular in the design and finishing of the case, a sparkling dial and a notably higher level movement. The essential mechanical improvements are an elevated beat rate of 19800 bph, a rack and pinion fine adjustment regulation and jeweled barrel arbor holes in the main plate. 
Then there is the unmentioned Seikomatic 6216-9000. In every respect this watch is in fact a 62GS. Its movement is identical, design and finishing are to the same high standard, and the dial may be even more charismatic. The 6217 mentioned earlier does not compete in this esthetically.
What the 6216 lacks however on its part is any assertion of chronometer status but also, more importantly, the Grand Seiko branding. 
In 1966 the Seikomatic 6216-9000 cost 23,000 Yen, yet the Grand Seiko 6246-9000 which in large part is the same watch, would have set you back 38,000 Yen. Of course, now you will have to pay vintage Grand Seiko money to acquire a good specimen.

   

Back to the 6218 weekdater however. This particular watch with a bold silver linen dial is fitted with polished applied markers with great detailing, and framed with a raised chapter ring - as most of the 62 series had. The framed date window is at three, the weekdater window at six. The mirror finished hour and minute hands are dauphine style for precison and legibility. With no separate bezel, the case has a thin profile with long lugs, giving it more presence on the  wrist. And finally, the hacking 6218 offers quick-setting for the date, and a semi-quickset day, meaning you have to go to and fro between 9PM and 3AM to switch it, but hey, you cannot have it all... this is vintage.

The Conductor as captain of the train, held the ultimate dignity. He also collected fares when folks boarded the train where there was no ticket agent. Since 2000 the Ball Conductor series with the Classic NM1068D and the first Transcendent NM1068D pays homage to the train conductors of the golden age of rail, the railroad counterparts of ships' captains. At the time, the train conductor played a crucial role in providing an exact measurement of time to ensure the trains ran to schedule. In so doing, they actively contributed to improving rail safety. This collection naturally personifies the demand for precision and reliability which initiated chronometry standards still in use to this day.

       

The minimalist Conductor Series represents the legacy of precision watch making in Ball Watch, so after celebrating its 120th anniversary in 2011, Ball unveiled the Conductor Transcendent II and in so doing made a return to its most authentic collection. In this one timepiece the vintage lines of the first Ball watches are combined with the aesthetic codes and technical performances of contemporary watchmaking. The retro characteristics of the “Conductor” collection are found instinctively in the tonneau-shape. Indeed, the first wristwatch designed by Ball in the 1920s was already a tonneau form. 
Very modern however is the anti-reflective sapphire TV styled crystal, the result of a technical feat in order to create its highly convex form. The transparent caseback, also fitted with a curved sapphire crystal, sits perfectly on the wrist. All these elements combined immediately imbue the Conductor Transcendent with its strong identity.

       

The dimensions and the design of this new timepiece, measuring 36x47x12mm, have been streamlined to make an elegant watch notable for its timeless classicism, and a refined accessory for the male wrist. The dial is voluntarily restrained although extreme care has been taken with even the smallest details, such as the central circle stamped horizontally and the interior minute graduations. The essential functions of this mechanical timepiece - hours, minutes, central seconds and date - are provided by the automatic-winding ETA 2892-A2 movement. Available with a stainless steel bracelet or crocodile leather strap, the Conductor Transcendent II is certified water resistant to 50 meters and is shock resistant up to 5,000Gs.
The watch indications are perfectly legible in the dark thanks to addition of micro tubes of luminescent 3H tritium gas on the hands and the dial. Ball Watch has again improved the use of this state-of-the-art Swiss technology by attaching the micro tubes on the dial to metal appliques, which will reflect light when the tritium does not yet kick in at night. The new patented process enhances the effect of the micro tubes while also improving the diffusion of the light generated by the tritium gas. This technology is up to 100 times more efficient than conventional luminous paints. 
The patented design of the Arabic numerals, already noticeable in the first Transcendent as a simple font, is also created using micro tubes, and is now part of the iconic luminescent signature of all Ball arabic watches.

   

Hi all, I noticed that a lot of mesh band on the market are very expensive... while from China they can be sourced cheaply. Bought one too to try this out, just paying 15 USD!

And here it is...it's just great. Had to cut it to size but that is a fun proces in itself. Old school.

           

Every watch nerd dreams of owning a piece hand-crafted by Seiko's top talent – and every watch nerd knows that Seiko always employed a couple of “old school” masters that since the late sixties have always been responsible for the best designed and more importantly, the best finished watches. The latter became truly essential when the brilliant Tanaka introduced his grammar of design, which required an insane level of zaratsu finishing that could be seen as it were from the Grand and King Seiko top, right down to the mid-tier watches like the Lord-Matics

Seiko never could let go of that design philosophy and these days a gentler form of it can still be seen in the works of the Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, located in Japan's central Nagano region. They are the present day absolute elite unit, responsible for hand-crafting not only the incredible Eichi II, but also the Credor Minute Repeater and Sonnerie. 
It was of course high time that a Grand Seiko was finally given the Micro Artist treatment, and it did not disappoint.
Everything about this GS is special, beginning with the diamond-dust-covered dial, meant to make the wearer think of the fresh snow, lit up by the sun as seen in the Nagano region where the watch is born. The case is in platinum, 43 mm in diameter, and is mirror polished using the famed zaratsu technique.
This is all great but not uniquely so, to the hard-core collector it is merely a confirmation of Seiko’s dial design genius and finishing techniques. We know this has been done before in the seventies, arguably Seiko’s golden age. More specifically, the Seiko Grand Quartz 4843-8100/8050 and 4840-8041 (and some others) have this dial, and arguably to an even more stunning degree of workmanship. 

       

The zaratsu on the 8100/8050 is even more impressive, as it is done on hardened steel, Seiko was able to produce these cases when the design was particularly suited to this hardening and finishing process. This will gleam like glass – even after more than 40 years of service. Speaking about service, most of these the watches have run to specs all that time. The Micro Artist Studio has quite a reputation to live up to.
The concept of a timeless luxury watch however has not been taken fully into account as it used to be. A 43 mm watch is not really a universally wearable time-piece, and a Grand watch really should be just that! Seiko seems to have given in to fashionable design esthetics like a big crown – that you will almost never have to use anyway, right?
But this article is not about a critique of the 9R01-0AA0 Spring Drive, it is about its diamond dust dial precursor. With its movement that has never been out to service, hardened steel with full-on zaratsu and old school historically enriched charm. It is just that the new diamond dust dial Grand Seiko still has a ways to go.
The old "Diamond Dust" dial GQ as stated is a very solidly made quartz. It was made early on in the production run of the 48-base caliber, which spanned just four years.
In the first year of its production in 1975, only this caliber Grand Quartz reigned supreme right next to the 38 Quartz V.F.A with just three models, 8000/8010/8020, there were no other Grand Quartzes! The models 8030/8040 were introduced later in 1975 and made for just three years; they came with a thick steel band for the 4843 and with leather only for the 4840 & 4842. That setup never changed for this caliber. Even when the much daintier 8100/8110 variations were introduced in 1976.
In 1978 Seiko introduced the twin quartz 9943, ending all of the 48 caliber that year. The 48 of the year before however remained a thicker and wider flaring watch (38x43x11mm!) and was more robust than its 994X descendant - it is after all a Tanaka design. Therefore, it already has a huge presence, apart from its very modern dimensions. This is also translated into the bracelet mentioned, which was uniquely designed for 1976/77 only. It is a very heavy, very tight bracelet - almost like those of the King Seiko Vanac of the day.
The 48 caliber has a definite "butch" personality to it as evidenced by its measurements of course... It is the definite early "king" as other variations like the 8100-model series are already smaller with lugs of 18mm instead of 19mm and dimensions of 36x42x11mm. For that matter, even the 8041 model has the larger case size compared to the 8040, even if it is only one millimeter more from lug to lug (42, not 41mm). Also, the lugs have a slightly different shape to them as seen from the front - which makes them seems longer. It is however the veritable twin brother.
Describing this caliber watch reminds one that, for instance, the thermo-compensation, due to its relative thickness, is still excellent after all these years. Also, the incredible dial work is still impeccable when the watch has never been breached but merely maintained. It is truly a high-end watch, easily comparable to modern Grand Seikos. Some might even argue that these "Grand" Seikos have never been surpassed in terms of historical significance or groundbreaking design. Tanaka design influences still deliver the best GS experience.
Internally, Grand Quartz had all sorts of technical innovations, twin quartz eventually being just one of them. This first GQ-caliber had great legibility due to zaratsu finished minute markers and some extra "punch".  That punch is quite literally implemented in the mechanics of this watch, it has that special Seiko gimmick of the "jumping seconds hand" (before it even evolved into the seiko "dancing hands"). This means that it will jump ahead 10 seconds when you pull the crown to adjust the time. It makes time setting so much easier!
In my experience these single quartzes are among the most accurate vintages; the twin quartzes like the 99 series mentioned have the specs for sure, but after 40 years or so… build quality and robustness gain the upper hand. The early Grand Quartzes truly shine.

Welcome to San Martin! At San Martin we have a vast collection of watches build with the greatest quality for our customers at affordable price. Please view our collections and promotions we’re having to learn more from us and do kindly allow us to assist you further. Please visit our Facebook page for more info! San Martin watches Sg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do like the late sixties design with the blocky minute markers..  and the champagne dial with cross-hair.

               

Well, lets not mince words.. it is all trees from now on. Enjoy!

First the .jpg

   

Then the .PDF


  Seiko Grand Quartz 4843.pdf (Size: 4.23 MB / Downloads: 53)