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Chinese Tourbillon movements
#1
1
Yes! There are cheap Tourbillons, they will cost you not somewhere in the region of 20.000 USD but just slightly over 3000 USD... 

   

The ST8000SA will cost you...

Polished steel
Sapphire crystal front and back
Alligator strap with adjustable folding buckle
19 Jewels
Diameter: 40mm
Water resistant to 5 ATM (50 meters)
Manual winding

Price: 3,865 € | 3,050 £ | 29,000 DKK

And here is a nice review on it..

Firstly, in terms of accuracy, the watch easily passes muster. I am no huge stickler for accuracy but as far as I can see, the watch is always accurate to the minute (since the rather exotic second hand is non-hacking). This is probably more than can be said for most other tourbillons from Europe, which are seen as fragile things that get a wearing once in a blue moon to an event. I have worn mine fairly often, and am a firm believer in not saving your best watches for special events, but rather celebrating them as often as possible in regular rotation. I have worn mine in all sorts of relatively active pursuits (caught a lemon shark off the Caribbean once with it), and never knew until recently that all mechanical watches, let alone tourbillons, should not be exposed to even slight shock.

As to the oft-lamented lack of decoration on the back of the movement, I think this is perfectly fine, since Swiss and German tourbillons are also left fairly bare (apart from decidedly redundant gold lettering detailing all sorts of exotic information which is fairly pointless). Apparently this is because tourbillons do not benefit from a large amount of decoration as this affects their accuracy. Nonetheless, there is nicely-done anglage on the three holes surrounding the tourbillon carriage (more nicely done than some of my rather pricey Swiss watches), and the tourbillon itself is beautifully polished and bevelled. The solid 3/4 plate adds stability and robustness to the movement, which probably played a part in preserving the tourbillon movement after it had been dropped on marble (see below). Any criticism against it can be equally levelled at the Glashuette tradition. On the whole there is no imperfection that can be seen either with the naked eye or with a 10x loupe. The diamond is indeed genuine and glimmers stunningly - and I am certified by HRD Antwerp to grade diamonds.

As to the million yuan question - how does the Sea\-Gull manufacture tourbillon compare with mushroom brands' products? To my knowledge, tourbillons are all hand assembled as there is simply no other way of doing so. There are several hundred minute components that must come together into one package that weighs less than a feather (according to Sea\-Gull), and this simply cannot be done by machine, which accounts for the cost of the movement. Such assembly is prone to errors, and thus the great bulk of these movements are rejected. These factory seconds are then likely sent out to other brands for their use. In fact, I have had a Kemmner tourbillon before my Sea\-Gull which uses the export TY800 movement at AAA grade, but even that exhibits some deficiencies in comparison to Sea\-Gull's own, in terms of power reserve, anglage and the lesser polishing of the movement.

With Sea\-Gull ceasing the sale of their reject tourbillon movements, these are now used in their proprietary tourbillon cufflinks (whose indigenous conception was recently celebrated at Basel!) Now exclusivity is one thing, and of dubious merit, but having the ability to produce tourbillon movements on a (relatively speaking) large scale enables Sea\-Gull to both accrue a great deal of manufacturing expertise and experience in perfecting them, as well as allows them to choose the very best for use in their own watches. And I feel that both points are certainly true in my own experience with their movements in both a manufacture and non-manufacture watch.

As to the warranty, I have yet to have occasion to use this. But my partner's own Kemmner tourbillon was recently dropped onto a marble floor. Although the diamond fell out, the tourbillon still amazingly works, and even keeps accurate time. This is utterly astounding to me, as can you imagine dropping a normal 3-hand Swiss luxury watch on marble and it continuing to function? Let alone a Swiss tourbillon. Equally inspiring is the fact that Sea\-Gull has agreed to fix the movement for a nominal sum, and within 10 days. To put things in perspective, could you imagine JLC agreeing to fix a Cartier tourbillon which you dropped on hard marble for a non-usurious fee, within such a short time frame? My Vacherons typically require 8 weeks for servicing (local service centre, and not sent to Geneva), and they are simple 3 handers. The routine servicing exceeds a grand with ease. Imagine the routine servicing for a high-end Swiss tourbillon. In my opinion, for a tourbillon for one to actually wear on a fairly regular basis, there is simply no other option than a Sea\-Gull tourb, as any other option is simply far, far too expensive. The lifetime free servicing is simply the dealmaker in this situation.

Now regarding the off-centre hands, I happen to take the view that this is a positive, as I believe it balances the gaping hole in the dial, and the design actually harmonises very well with the Roman numerals concentrated upwards. Sea\-Gull in my opinion has the most elegant design of any tourbillon in the world. Although the Beijing tourbillon probably is of superior quality, its case and dial simply do not accord with me as well as Sea\-Gull's. The lancet hands are gorgeous of course. The combination of the stark white dial, glimmering diamond pointer on a carriage that is shaped like a 大 or "great", the forceful hands and guilloche dial, present a dignified, stately countenance to the world, proclaiming to all that China has accomplished the construction of the low-cost, but beautiful and practical tourbillon. I know that mine will grow old with me, and not fail on me at an inopportune time, and will always be taken care of by its maker. And ultimately it will be handed down to my blessed offspring. Who knows where Sea\-Gull, and China, will be, at that point in time?




However, the 818.930 is cheaper if you look for discounts, it can be had for 2140 USD/1840 Euro...

   

Sadly, it is out of stock... but anyway, here is the link. They ship from Germany too so that is a boon to European watch collectors.

http://www.seagullwatchstore.com/Seagull...18.930.htm


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  • WatchKhal
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#2
2
Better response on post RE: Chinese Tourbillon movementsI received my first Chinese tourbillon a while ago - a Sea\-Gull designer series 818.937. It's a model I haven't seen around here before, so I thought I'd post a review here. (Previously elsewhere).

Here's the short review: This is a stunning, beautifully executed watch. It exudes class and luxury, without being showy or pretentious. It's simply a great dress watch - not just for the price, but a great dress watch, period.

   

Now for the more in-depth review.

I've long admired Sea\-Gull's tourbillon watches, but they've always been out of my price range. However, last month they became a lot more affordable for most people. The team over at http://www.seagullwatchstore.com have negotiated a deal with the Tianjin Sea\-Gull watch company to offer discounts on all Sea\-Gull tourbillon watches, exclusively to the foreign market. They're on sale now for 40 per cent off the official price, as listed at the manufacturer's site. Limited editions are also on offer with a 20 per cent discount. The site is also offering steep discounts on Sea\-Gull 1963 and D304 chronograph watches.
The tourbillon I went for is the Sea\-Gull 818.937. It's part of Sea\-Gull's designer series, which features watches with clean, modern lines. Sea\-Gull also offers a number of more more classically styled tourbillons, but the designer series watches suit my tastes much better.
The 818.937 is a dress watch cased in premium 316L stainless steel. The case measures 41mm across without the crown and 10mm high, with a lug width of 21mm. The finishing of the case is of very high quality - much, much better than any watch I've owned previously. The case has an appealing mix of brushed and polished surfaces. The bezel and top of the lugs have a beautiful mirror polish finish which is very finely executed. Between the lugs, the case has a coin edge design, with a polished finish on the raised surfaces and a brushed finish on the recessed surfaces. It's a thoughtful, well-executed design that really speaks to the craftsmanship that went into this timepiece.

   

The sides of the lugs, and part of the case, are finely brushed, which gives a nice contrast to the polished bezel and upper lugs. The sides again feature the same coin edge design used between the lugs. On the right side is a small, recessed pusher for changing the date, and the signed crown. The Sea\-Gull logo on the crown is polished, and sits atop a brushed recess. It's a nice touch.
The dial is a beautiful white colour which, upon close inspection, has the texture of incredibly fine sandpaper. The 818.937 is also available in black and blue variants, but I like the crispness of the classic white dial. 

   

The hour indices are applied silver-coloured batons. There are two smaller batons at 12 o'clock, and there is no baton at 6 o'clock, where the tourbillon window sits. The minutes are marked on the pure white chapter ring, which proudly reads 'China Made' just below the tourbillon window. The chapter ring slopes down from the crystal to the dial, adding depth.
The dial features four subdials. Each subdial has a small border with a enamel-like finish, which provides a subtle contrast to the matte dial. The subdials at 12, 3 and 9 o'clock are all slightly recessed. The 12 o'clock subdial is a power reserve indicator, showing up to 40 hours reserve. This is incredibly useful as the Sea\-Gull ST8007 movement that powers the watch is hand-wound. It's easy to tell, at a glance, whether your watch needs another wind to keep it ticking. The 3 o'clock subdial shows the date, which changes over automatically at midnight, or can be set via the pusher on the side. The 9 o'clock subdial has a 24-hour indicator and a sun-moon indicator. The latter is particularly beautiful - it is a deep, rich blue, with the sun and moon finished in a subtle matte gold. The fourth subdial is, of course, the tourbillon window.

The hands are of a sword design and are finished in lustrous 18k white gold, which reflects the light beautifully. The hour and minute hands are elegantly proportioned, making it easy to tell the time. There is no second hand - instead, the seconds are marked by a small diamond at the tip of the tourbillon, which rotates once every minute. It's a nice, practical use for an arguably impractical complication.
The tourbillon itself is beautifully finished. There's a nice mix of steel and what looks to be brass. The diamond at the tip, the ruby on the balance wheel and two blued screws and an extra touch of colour. The dial sits beneath sapphire glass. The crystal reflects light marvelously, and really helps to make the whole dial pop.

The back of the case is held in place by a series of screws. It's inscribed between the screws with the model number, water resistance (50m), maker and case material. The bulk of the back is a nice display crystal, which lets you admire the rear of the ST8007 movement. The flying tourbillon is attached at the bottom at three points - this is what allows the tourbillon to look as though it is flying when viewed from the top. You can see right through the tourbillon to the other side of the case and beyond. The rest of the movement back features a steel plate with nicely finished Geneva stripes and inscribed text with a gold finish. There are four wheels, each affixed with blued screws, which you can see in action when you wind the crown.

   

The ST8007 is a fairly practical movement for a tourbillon. Hand-winding is firm but smooth. The movement has been keeping good time - I've worn the watch continuously during waking hours for the last few days, and it's gained only 10 seconds. It is quite loud - you can hear the tourbillon ticking away when you're in a quiet room. But that's the trade-off for being able to watch the tourbillon in action, which is nothing short of mesmerising. I've found myself idly staring at it many times over the last few days.

The watch comes on a nicely finished black alligator strap. It's an elegant choice which is befitting for a luxury dress watch. It's stiff but not inflexible and quite comfortable on the wrist. That's in no small part thanks to the soft leather lining. The strap closes with a Sea\-Gull signed stainless steel deployant clasp. It's a quality clasp with push-button action, and it would be very hard for it to accidentally come undone.
One issue with the strap is its stiffness makes an audible creaking noise when moving my wrist. Hopefully the stiffness will decrease with wear and the sound will stop. Another issue for some people might be the uneven 21mm lug width, which makes it harder to find decent alternative strap choices. 

   

The watch comes in a nice wooden box, which looks great on my dresser. Inside the box is a Sea\-Gull tourbillon booklet which covers the history of the brand, what a tourbillon is, how to use the watch, and a catalogue of all current tourbillon models. It also comes with a certificate of authenticity from Sea\-Gull.
Seagullwatchstore.com ships all their tourbillons by DHL. Mine arrived very well packed within five days. Communication with the seller was, as always, excellent - polite, prompt and helpful. Overall, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this watch if you're looking for a tourbillon, or a luxury timepiece in general. It's a brilliantly executed package that just oozes quality, class and style.
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#3
0
Such nice watches at such an affordable price - well just under 2000 USD is considered cheap for a tourbillon... It is on my wishlist for sure.
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#4
0
Beautiful watches for sure, but as usual not for the female persuasion... We are in the minority it seems.
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